My impromptu trip to Japan materialized when I found myself in Thailand with friends on my route back to New York via Tokyo. Seizing the opportunity, I contacted the airline and surprisingly received permission to extend my stay in Japan, albeit with a one-hundred-dollar charge. This green light prompted me to embark on a journey to Naoshima Island, a serene haven where local villagers reside in traditional ryokans, and locally owned restaurants and captivating art installations abound. My fascination with this island was kindled during my research on Tadao Ando, the internationally renowned “samurai architect” and self-taught designer. Ando’s distinctive contemporary style, characterized by his skillful use of concrete, has left an indelible mark on architectural landscapes worldwide. On Naoshima Island, Ando has erected several structures embodying his vision, transcending national boundaries. Walking through his creations feels like a shared exploration of nature and art as Ando unveils his unique world perception.
Gigantic pumpkin by Yayoi Kusama at the Ferry station at Naoshima island
One of the island’s highlights is the Chichu Art Museum, an extraordinary testament to modern art situated on Naoshima Island in Japan. True to its name, most of the museum is cleverly nestled underground, emphasizing its deep connection with the earth. Constructed in 2004, the museum is a sanctuary for contemplating the intricate interplay between nature, art, and human senses. Here, one can keenly sense the vibrant energy of nature harmoniously embracing the concrete structures, exemplifying a symbiotic relationship between the man-made and the untamed.
the main entrance of Chichu Art Museum
Within the hallowed halls of the Chichu Art Museum reside awe-inspiring works by Monet, De Maria, and Turrell — three visionary artists united by their exploration of nature’s essence. Each artist, in their distinctive style, interprets the wonders of the natural world and translates them into breathtaking art forms. With his profound understanding, Ando has crafted an abundant space that effortlessly complements and amplifies each masterpiece. The tranquil interplay of natural light and ephemeral shadows creates an atmosphere of perpetual mystery and renewal. Here, one experiences the resounding grandeur of art intertwined with profound silence — a sensory symphony that defies verbal expression. The artworks are thoughtfully distributed across different sections of the museum, interconnected by corridors meticulously designed by Ando to reflect the unique character of each space.
The Claude Monet Space is based on an architectural plan conceived by Monet during the final years of his life. This space, where his iconic “Water Lilies” can be admired, is bathed in natural light, with cornerless walls that provide indirect illumination. The overall whiteness of the space, achieved through marble and plaster, faithfully embodies Monet’s artistic ideals. To accentuate the qualities of the paintings, white marble frames, floors, and coarse sand plaster walls, are employed. The Bianco Carrara marble used for the floor hails from the Carrara region of Italy, the same quarry that once supplied Michelangelo.The Chichu Art Museum also features three works by James Turrell, an artist renowned for exploring light as an object. The recommended viewing order for his works is Afrum, Pale Blue, Open Sky, and Open Field. In Afrum, Pale Blue, Turrell endeavors to reveal light itself rather than illuminating objects. When observed from a distance, the light projected in the corner of the room appears to form a floating cube suspended in space. Open Sky and Open Field allow visitors to immerse themselves in the very essence of light, transcending conventional boundaries.
Open Sky (2004) by James Turrell
The third artist featured in the Chichu Art Museum is Walter De Maria, who personally dictated the specifications for the space, including its ceiling height and lighting. This area spans 24 meters in depth and 10 meters in width, with an entrance on the east side and its long side extending in an east-west direction. As the sun rises from the entrance direction, it gradually descends towards the back wall, resulting in dramatic changes in lighting conditions throughout the day, in harmony with the natural shifts of sunlight. The space comprises steps and exposed concrete, housing a 2.2-meter diameter granite sphere and 27 wooden sculptures adorned with gold leaf. It is meant to be perceived as a unified entity. Occasionally, a low-pitched drum sound resonates within the room, a deliberate creation by De Maria himself. The intention behind this sound is to reverberate through the space, breaking the silence and engaging with the surrounding environment.
Grand view of the Walter De Maria installation
To fully appreciate the artworks within the museum, it is recommended to pause, immerse yourself in the space repeatedly, and allow the lingering sensations to unfold before moving on to the following collection. After exploring the museum, I highly recommend visiting the café, offering a splendid view of the Seto Inland Sea. This picturesque seaside landscape serves as the final flourishing passage in the museum, enhanced by the dramatic touch of the setting sun. Which provides a serene and captivating contemplation and conclusion to your magnificent journey through the Chichu Art Museum.
The sunset view from the museum cafe
written by Lana Alexander